Why you need an ultra-fine black marker in your supply box

As most of my readers know, I welcome questions, comments and suggestions on this blog, and I have a new one to address today, thanks to new reader Barb. It is, technically, a correction to the book.

On page 56 of my book, Ball-Jointed Dolls for Beginners, I recommend adding an ultra-fine tipped black water-soluble marker to your supply list for new BJD owners. As you read through my tips and techniques, you may have noticed I neglect to mention how exactly this marker comes in handy.

I use a brush marker tip to correct fine mistakes. Here are a few ways in which this tool comes in handy.

Eyelash repair or replacement


Generally, I recommend a clear-drying craft glue when replacing doll eyelashes. Occasionally, even the "experts" among us will get a small glob of glue that doesn't quite dry all the way clear. In this case, the brush tip of the black marker will help cover those globs (once they have dried 24 hours) to blend them in to the rest of the eye. Simply dap just the tip of the brush marker to the glob of glue (I use reading glasses or a magnifying glass, while resting my hand on the table for steadiness), and allow the glue to absorb the color.

Light eyeliner repair


When working around a doll's head, I recommend using wooden tools, such as toothpicks or a rounded cuticle stick, when doing fine work such as eyelash repair. I have been known (as officially the clumsiest "expert" in the world) to accidentally ding a doll's eyeliner when replacing a doll's head, if I'm not paying attention or if it's in the middle of the night. If you accidentally do this with hemostats, even lightly, you risk removing the eyeliner or painted eyelashes.

The black water-soluble marker comes in handy for these tiny repairs. I only use mine for eyeliner, since I don't feel steady enough to touch up the delicate painted eyelashes. I recommend practicing on paper first.

Damage can usually be avoided by:

• working during times when you are fully awake and alert
• using a pipe cleaner to grasp the doll's S-hook when reattaching the head to the body, as shown in the book
• using only wooden implements around your doll's face, and very gentle movements
• not picking at your doll's face-up with your (painted) fingernails

Why I don't recommend Sharpies

While Sharpie markers come in many forms and sizes and are readily available, I recommend staying away from this type of marker for several reasons:

• These are permanent markers. You can't fix mistakes. Once it's there, it's there.
• The ink can bleed deep into the resin, as resin is porous. Even a think line can get larger and thicker over time.
• On most resin, there is no way to remove Sharpie. Even heavy sanding will not remove the permanent marker from resin. And sanding will ruin your face sculpt. Just don't risk it.

I hope you find this helpful. As always, I welcome your questions and comments!

Where to get replacement S-hooks for your BJD

Does your doll have an older style O-ring or D-ring at the top of the neck instead of an S-hook? Are you a compulsive restringer? Do you enjoy replacing your doll's torso or leg parts, or would you rather have an S-hook at the top?

Well, my advice is to avoid the hardware store, and buy hooks directly from a BJD dealer. You pay a little more, but will get hooks that will last a lot longer and actually be the right size for your doll.

Several places have the right sizes:

• Denver Doll Emporium carries these in large and small sizes.
• Mint on Card carries large hooks singly and small hooks in sets of four.
• Kemper Dolls carries a large supple of nickel-plated S-hooks, but I haven't tried this type before.

BJDs and staining

Yeru in Splendid Blue, a photo by alington on Flickr.

Are you a recent BJD convert from vinyl dolls? Are you concerned about black or darkly colored fabric staining your precious (and expensive) resin doll?

For those of you who collect vinyl, you know how difficult removing stains can be. I'm sure you're equally concerned about being able to remove stains from your expensive ball-jointed beauty as well.

How can you be sure that your gorgeous BJD beauty will be safe from stains? Do major doll costuming companies, such as DollHeart, take care to create clothing that won't bleed onto your doll?

Before we get started, keep in mind that resin cleans easily with Mr. Clean's Magic Eraser sponge. Used dry, light staining is easily removed. Simply move the sponge in small circles over the stained area. You'll need to use a very light touch on blushed dolls, or you'll risk removing the sealant and paint.

Bleeding (color transfer) happens when a non-colorfast fabric comes into contact with a lighter color of fabric (or in this case, porous resin). In damp climates or if the fabric becomes wet, this is usually a bigger problem. For more information about fabric care, check out Mrs. Stewart's page.

From my own experience, I don't think you can take any dark fabric as completely stain safe. Black and reds are the biggest culprits. You have a few options:

• Change your doll's clothing frequently.
• Have your doll wear a light colored bodysuit underneath dark colored clothing.
• Treat the fabric before dressing your doll.

You can treat the fabric by soaking it in a solution of three parts water to one part (white) vinegar. Make sure to rinse under cold water, so all the vinegar is removed (you shouldn't be able to smell it), and the water runs clear. Leaving vinegar in fabric can damage it over time.

Delicate outfits probably shouldn't be washed, even by hand. I'd recommend the bodysuit option for these, if you're concerned. 

Super Lavin

Super Lavin, a photo by alington on Flickr.

Another update on my Peak's Woods/Soom Super Gem Lavin hybrid... and some really, really bad news for me: I fell for Volks!

Here's how it happened: I was checking out the latest Dolpa online last Saturday, and after being frustrated I couldn't get the items I'd intended, I happened upon this gorgeous SD16 size dress. I'd just heard from Ms. Cholong that SD16 and Super Gem are pretty close to the same size, so I thought I'd take a chance.

My intention was just to try it on.

Oh dear. I love it.

You might notice I still haven't fixed Lavin's neck. In the larger photo, you may notice her Peak's Woods hands. I wasn't a fan of Super Gem's super man hands. But I'm used to these smaller more delicate Peak's Woods girls, too.

The superglue incident, or, what not to do with superglue

My fingers, about to become stuck together with superglue.

I may look and sound like a ball-jointed doll expert, but I am prone to making mistakes with my expensive dolls just like anybody else. Did I ever mention why I don't do face-ups? It's because I shake, I'm clumsy, and I drop things. Additionally, I don't pay close attention to what I'm doing. In this post, I intend to teach you some very important things about that BJD collector's necessity, superglue, that we all should know in times of emergencies.

First, it's very important to know that superglue is an essential supply to have on hand. I'm not sure why, but head cap magnets often fall out of my dolls. They are tiny, strong magnets, and hot glue just doesn't keep them in place. You must use a strong glue, like Zap-a-Gap or some other superglue instead. 

Second, when you're replacing the magnet, it's important to know that you only need one drop of glue. If you use more than a drop, you'll overfill the cavity designed for the magnet, and the glue may, for instance, spill over the side of your doll's head and down the back of your doll's neck or, worse, onto your doll's face. Or, if you happen to be replacing the doll's head cap magnet, all over your poor doll's head, through no fault of her own. Sure, you might try wiping it off quickly with your fingers, but then your fingers will be stuck together.

Third, it's essential to know that some people are paranoid about having their fingers stuck together. They have a real phobia about this. In fact, even the thought (or memory, perhaps) about having their fingers stuck together even for a few seconds makes their heart pound and causes the onset of a panic attack. In fact, writing a blog post about this experience might even necessitate the ingestion of a prescribed Xanax, for example. Not that I'm speaking from experience, of course. 

There might be a hypothetical doll collector who, as a child, learned to use a spoon at nine months because she'd scream every time she got her hands dirty with food. She may have been a bit high maintenance, perhaps. As she grew older, and her father made her work on cars, she'd get grease under her fingernails. It would be the worst thing about working on cars and might have caused hysterics now and then (though it's possible it's because she'd just spent four hours replacing the radiator on an 1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass, and coolant was still leaking, so that meant it must be the water pump that needed replacement instead). And perhaps this trait was hereditary, and one of her own dexterous daughters learned to use a spoon at seven months as well.

Fourth, it's important that, when you have such panic attacks, you take nice deep breaths to get yourself back under control.

Fifth, when you are replacing the head magnet, and you accidentally flip it upside down on top of the superglue, it can be a real mess. Not only do you end up with glue on your hands and on the doll, you might also end up not only with a messy magnet, but one that actually repels the head cap. (Ugh!) Getting freshly set superglue out of the head is nearly impossible.

Sixth, it's possible to look up superglue on the series of tubes which is the internets and find out that acetone actually dissolves superglue. However, it will also dissolve a beautiful face-up. So my advice is to flip over the head cap magnet instead. Here's how:

1. Be sure you're removing the right magnet on the head cap, or you'll have to do this process twice (ask me how I know!).
2. Working in a well-ventilated area, apply acetone (which you can find at the drugstore in the nail polish aisle--make sure you use the colorless kind) to the head cap magnet with a cotton pad. You'll really want to soak the area. You'll also want the acetone to soak for a few minutes to do its work--about five minutes or so.
3. Be aware that this process will remove any moleskin suede from the head cap as you work. It dissolves the glue on moleskin as well.
4. Using a slim stylus or another narrow object, gently wiggle the magnet out of place, applying more acetone if necessary. Keep in mind that acetone softens resin, and that even a toothpick will dent resin soaked with acetone. So keep the poking to the inside of the head cap.
5. Eventually, the magnet will loosen and come out. When it does, dry it off well, and place it on its partner magnet on the head.
6. Dry off the head cap completely. Rinse if desired, or wash with soap and water, after the acetone has completely evaporated and dried.
7. Leaving the magnet on its partner magnet in the head, place a single drop of superglue into the hole on the head cap.
8. Flip the magnet into the hole, being careful to place it upside down. Press into place and let it dry.
9. Use a cotton pad damp with acetone to remove any glue from your fingers, and from the outside of the doll, being careful not to get acetone on the face or body blushing.

Take a deep breath and go have a glass of wine, if you're old enough.

Buying the dolls you love.

Wake Up Cue by Peak's Wood
No longer in my collection but on her way

I'm currently in the midst of the infamous doll shuffle, the dread game of many dedicated doll collectors. You can look at it as paring down your collection, refining it, streamlining, decluttering--it comes down to redefining what you collect.

I know there are many collectors who don't ever do this in their collections, and often, I feel judged when I sell dolls that I buy. I wish I had the luxury to keep all the dolls that I own, quite frankly, but sometimes I need to declutter for the sake of space and for the sake of the budget.

How do you decide which dolls to keep? I know some collectors decide on a final number, and limit their dolls to that number. When a new doll arrives, an older one has to go. (I don't have that kind of discipline, but what a great idea!) For me, I look for themes in my collection, and concentrate on any shelves that look crowded. I also look at the dolls that have lost their main attraction.

1978 Sun Lovin Christie, a gorgeous Steffie sculpt
A doll I like but don't love 

Depending on how badly I need to sell them, I will try redressing them or restyling the dolls first--trying on a new wig or a outfit often changes the entire look of the doll. I enjoy the process as well, and it will often awaken a new-found love for a doll I haven't played with in a while. If it doesn't, however, then I know it's time to move.

If the doll cost under $200, or if it is a BJDs or non-vintage Barbie, I will often sell it on eBay. BJDs go on Den of Angels and the Resin Café. Vintage Barbie I will sell on consignment with Kathie of Kathie's Fashion Dolls. She can get a much better price than I can, and she has a huge customer base, and it's so much less hassle.

How do keep from being broken-hearted about my sales? The way I look at it is trading up for dolls I love. I might sell dolls I sort of like, but I'll eventually replace them with the dolls I love. I have tendency to buy dolls on impulse, or preorder dolls on a promotional photo, and then find the doll either doesn't meet my expectation or my collection theme. These dolls sit on a shelf, and I feel guilty about them. Why should I keep them if I could be trading them up for a brand new BJD on my wish list? I might have to sell six Barbies for a YoSD sized doll, but it will a) save a lot of space and b) give me more joy in my collection in the long run. It's worth the time and hassle.

I challenge you to do the same. Don't sell any dolls you love, though--and for some people, that might be many more dolls in your collection than mine. But what if you could find 5% of your collection's worth to sell? That might be able to invest you further into the world of BJDs! Wouldn't it be worth it?

What a difference a face-up makes!

Goodreau Whisper, a photo by alington on Flickr.

American BJD Whisper (by Goodreau Doll) was one of my first ball-jointed dolls. I've always loved her open-mouth sculpt. I've wanted to give her a unique face-up all her own, which I recently got around to doing for her.

She was sent to Overnight Flight with instructions to make her look a little concerned, worried and confused. She received a complete face-up, and here she is! I think she makes a perfect Alice.

I still haven't gotten around to putting in eyelashes, but I am sort of enjoying her look without them for now. I think she's super sweet and innocent-looking. See more photos on Flickr.

I realized that before you sell a doll, it might be worth the extra $40 to send the head out for a nice face-up, just to see what the artist will do for you. It can make all the difference in the doll.

A note to new BJD collectors

DollHeart's Little Alice set, photo property of DollHeart

I'd like to write a little note to the new BJD collectors I've recently introduced to these wonderful dolls, and give you a gentle word of advice. The past week, I've been scouring Den of Angels and the Resin Café marketplace forums to find myself a Lati Yellow sized doll--a size I don't currently have in my collection. I love Miel's face, actually (she's in the bunny ears).

"But I thought you were a Peak's Woods fan, Alison!"

I am. I asked at Peak's Woods' Q&A board to see if there might be plans in the works to make a doll of this size first, of course. (There isn't, so far, unfortunately.)

But I love these little Alice outfits. Technically, DollHeart calls them, "Little Alice in the Wonderland." I haven't decided whether I need the pink or blue, or maybe the set. Probably the set. Then I will have outfits for her. (You simply must check out DollHeart's Lati selection!)

OK. So my advice to you new BJD collectors: never buy an outfit for a doll you do not own. This is a bad way to go. First, what if you get the doll, and you don't really like her? It's always better to see the doll in person first, and decide whether you want to try a new scale. Then, if you like the size, budget for the doll and buy it. Only then invest in a wardrobe.

For goodness' sake, I wrote the book! Can't I follow my own advice? LOL!

The Iplehouse resin hook issue

April Doll Meet, a photo by alington on Flickr.

Am I biased against all dolls except Peak's Woods? Of course not. However, I do mention something about resin hooks in the Doll Emergencies section of my book. Iplehouse dolls are one of the companies (JollyPlus has them, too) who string their BJDs' feet with resin hooks.

This can be both a good and a bad thing. Here's why:

Good: Resin hooks look nice. They are hidden in the foot part, and the same color as the foot. There is less of a chance of "flashing," which is when the doll shows its elastic or wiring. Iplehouse has some of the best engineered dolls on the market when it comes to non-flashing dolls. The joints are flanged and attractive, so the elastic never shows. Since no wire is used, there is nothing wire to flash. In truth, they are fantastic dolls.

The not-so-good: The elastic string used in a doll is held taut. The loop that holds the arms in place isn't the problem--that one doesn't hold as much tension as the one the doll needs to stand. The second loop, which is a loop folded in half, holds about half the pressure at the neck joint (at the S-hook) and the other half of the pressure at each ankle joint. It's strung tightly enough so the doll will stand straight and independently. When the elastic attaches directly to the resin, there is a lot of pressure on the delicate resin.

What I have seen (on three JID and one EID) is that a foot might get stuck in a boot. The owner uses gentle pressure to remove the boot, and snap! Suddenly, the foot comes off with the boot. The elastic zips up into the lower leg, along with the resin hook, and stays there. The problem is easy enough to fix:

1. Buy a new foot from Iplehouse.
2. Pull the elastic out of the lower leg.
3. Thread a pipe cleaner through the elastic loop and re-thread the lower leg.
4. Hook the new foot back in place.

It's just that the problem is common and inconvenient. When you have a wire connecting the foot to the elastic, you have just a little relief in the pressure on the resin. You may have some flashing--but you'll have less of a chance to break the foot.

French manicure preview

®All rights reserved.

®All rights reserved.

I'm pleased to be able to preview pages 91-92 from the book, Ball-Jointed Dolls for Beginners. We teach you a simple way (really--it's simple!) to give your resin BJD a French manicure, using watercolor pencils and Liquitex gloss varnish. It's really easy to do, and even if you can't draw or paint, you will be able to have amazing results when you're finished.

Personally, my hands shake pretty badly, so I am not very good at drawing or painting (or coloring in the lines); but even I can do a manicure.

If this looks like something you can do, consider buying a copy of my book. About half of the book is filled with techniques like these that show you short cuts on how you, too, can customize your doll.

Through the end of July, use the code FAKRYNLB at checkout and get free standard US shipping (or a $3.59 credit toward shipping) on your order.

Trick for getting S-hooks over elastic loops

I was struggling with restringing the other day--I was trying to show a neighborhood teen how easy it was, and it was a little early for an alcoholic beverage (plus, it wouldn't have set a very good example, quite frankly)--and I was using the last elastic I had on hand, which was too large for my MSD-sized doll. (Stupid, stupid, stupid. Always use the right tools for the job.)

At any rate, I was able to make it work, and I came across a trick for getting the tiny hand hooks through large loops of elastic that I had to share.

Instead of trying to "hook" the open end of the S shape onto the elastic loop at the end of the wrist or ankle joint, this is what you need to try:

1. Make certain that you have the loop held in place with you hemostats at the ankle or wrist.
2. Push one half of the S-hook through the loop of elastic.
3. Twist the S-hook up, and it will magically slide onto the loop, through the middle of the S, rather than through the end of the S.

This allows you to hook the loop onto the elastic without wearing down the end of the elastic, or worrying about having to open the S hook more. It's a fun little trick!

I actually did this with the hand already attached to the hook, so it was a cinch to get the doll's hand in place. Give it a try, and tell me what you think. Have you all been doing this for years, and I just figured it out?

The DollHeart Fer and you

Detailed shot of DollHeart's Black Fer coat. Gorgeous fabric, teeny tiny button. Only one is buttoned.

The DollHeart Fer belongs in every large ball-jointed doll girl's wardrobe. It is, simply put, a work of art. In the book, I briefly described the Fer as: a "type of outfit (long ruffled dress with a hooded, long ruffled cape) manufactured by DollHeart. Some DollHeart dealers sell exclusive colored Fers, created by DollHeart."

View of the coat

That description simply doesn't do the Fer justice. Now, after a glass of wine and spending 20 minutes putting on a single glove (for the third or fourth time), I'd love to delve more deeply into my confusing love/hate relationship with the Fer.

Each Fer outfit includes the following pieces:

• cotton dress, with a tank top shaped bodice and drop-waisted partial circle skirt, trimmed with unfinished edged ruffles
• coordinating petticoat to support the skirt's volume
• coordinating coat, made with a horizontal lace/ribbon-like fabric, with a pointed hood and asymmetric buttoned front with about a bazillion button closure
• pair of matching chiffon fingerless gloves, which lace all the way up to the doll's upper arms
• coordinating choker

The Fer is available in a monochromatic color scheme, black or white being the most common, and other colors (dusty rose, light pink, coral, wine, indigo and purple) being available as exclusive editions or special events. The retail usually ranges between $90-120, depending on the edition size, for a large BJD. They are available in mini and tiny sizes, as well.

When I first saw a Fer in an owner photo, I thought the outfit simply beautiful. I didn't rush out to buy one--I mean, I didn't add it to my BJD priority list spreadsheet. However, I confess when my friend Melissa showed me the one she had in real life, I was blown away. DollHeart's quality is usually amazing; to see the workmanship in the Fer is a whole 'nother story. I was in love. Priority spreadsheet aside, I pre-ordered the Black Fer from DollHeart for my Peak's Woods princesses. I ignored Melissa's comments about the buttons on the Fer's coat and lacing the gloves--considering that she perhaps might be an impatient BJD collector, forever changing her doll collecting (by selling them to me).

When my black version arrived, I was equally impressed. The dress went on easily and fit my large bust Peak's Woods girl like a glove. The petticoat equally so. Next, to get the lacing gloves to fit, I tried:

• sliding them on,
• removing my girl's hand, putting the hand in the glove, and then slipping the sleeve up her arm,
• unlacing the glove (this is the worst idea of all!),
• relacing the glove, and, finally,
• sliding the glove, slowly and gently, up my girl's arm for the second time.

Then, I had to do the other arm. I had to go to the medicine cabinet and take a legal chill pill. Fortunately, only the coat was the last piece left. That's when I saw the many teeny, tiny buttons, which required my reading glasses to see. So, I put on my glasses, put the coat on the doll (which covered up the damned gloves), and proceeded to take 15 minutes to button a single button.

Peak's Woods Segi, wearing the Fer without coat

We'll just say Sonja wore the Fer for quite a while without the coat, and she loved it.

I did eventually get the rest of the buttons done: the fabric with the buttons holes is enforced and a little stiff, and you have to be very careful not to accidentally lose a button while you're doing them up, which would then require sewing! However, Sonja looked lovely with the coat. The hood is adorable. The black fabric did not stain my white resin doll.

After trying the outfit on two other dolls (the latest was this evening), I came up with a brilliant solution: next time, I'm going to remove my doll's head, and keep the Fer on the body. I'll just pop on a different  head, and save myself two hours of delightful (or not) dressing time! Who even cares if the resin matches? Is it worth my health and eye sight?

I do have to say, the outfit is beautiful--probably the most beautiful outfit I own. Well, one of the most beautiful, if I didn't feel like the Fer had a personal vendetta against me.

I have to admit: if I found an indigo or purple (maybe it was called Iris?) version, I wouldn't hesitate to buy a second one!

Identifying Peak's Woods FOC sculpts

Sleeping Cue, no longer available. Notice Cue's pointed chin.

Sleeping Yami

A refresher: FOC = Fairy of Color. That's the term Peak's Woods uses for their large ball-jointed doll.


A quick pointer, if you have the doll in person: Peak's Woods usually stamps their head sculpts on the inside of the head, both the name of the doll and the year it was first made. This is the easiest way to get the doll's name.

How to identify a Peak's Woods doll FOC head

Look at the doll's eyes. If the doll's eyes are completely closed, you need to email me right away and send me that head. If the mouth is open, you have a Sleeping Yami. If the mouth is closed, you have a Sleeping Cue. These sculpts were only available through DollHeart years ago, and haven't been available for a while. I've wanted one forever, and have been pestering Peak's Woods to make a new (or older) sleeping sculpt for a while. (You can sometimes see these girls, especially Sleeping Cue, modeling DollHeart outfits.)

Yulli

If the doll's eyes are partly closed, look at her lips. If her lips are open, look at her chin. If her chin is pointed (like a triangle), you have Wake-Up Cue. If she has a slight overbite, high cheekbones and nose is just a little pinched at the end, this is Wake-Up Goldie. If her cheeks are full, her eyes are large and wide set, and her nose is very turned up, you've got Yeru the Soul. If her cheeks are very full and her upper lip sticks out farther than her lower lip (as though she has an overbite), this is Wake-Up Lottie.

Now, ignore the eyes for a moment, and look at the lips. If the doll has an open mouth, this is Viyol, Yami or Yulli. Viyol's face is angular, and she has a pointed chin. When you look at her from the top, her face is angled. Her lips are full, and she has heavy eye lids. Yami and Yulli look very similar and are the hardest to tell apart, in my opinion. The differences I see: Yami's eyes are wider set, and her chin is more defined. Her eye lids are wider than Yulli's. Yulli's mouth is open a little wider, her upper lip is less defined, and her nose is more upturned. Her cheeks are fuller and she has a more innocent look.

If you haven't found your doll yet, look at your doll's eyes again. If they are large, you probably have either Skiya, Cue or Yeru. Skiya can wear either 18-20mm, and she can have an almost smiling (or at least serene) expression on her face. Her nose is only slightly upturned. Cue is easily identified by her pointed chin and large forehead. Her nose is very straight. Yeru can be recognize by her 20mm eyes and her upturned nose. Her eye sculpt is also very round at the top and flatter on the botton. Yeru is very young and sweet looking.

Yami

Seven sculpts remain. Let's examine the lips again. If you see an obvious overbite with full cheeks, you probably have either Lavin or Lottie in your hands. Lottie looks younger and has a full round face, like a young girl or a fairy. (If your doll has a face-up, there are two versions: the face-up with browns, golds and yellow eye shading is Lottie Real. The face with nose blushing, browns and neutral eyes is Lottie Ani.) Lavin's face is also young, but her eye sculpt allows her to look slightly more realistic. Her face is more heart-shaped and thinner at the temples.

Lavin as some similar features to Briana. Her lips are similar, but Briana is much more realistic. Her eyes are smaller than the other Peak's Woods sculpts, and her nose is slightly bigger. Her lips are puckered in a real "kiss" shape. The two face-up versions are Sweet Milk (in neutral, lighter shades with light lips) and Sweet Dark (darker eyes and lips). The next "realistic" sculpt is Segi. She is seen less frequently, but is very versatile. She has larger eyes than Briana, and her face is rounder. Segi's eyes are deeply set, and an interestingly shaped stretched oval.

The last three sculpts are Goldie (one of Peak's Woods most popular), Mintie and Sky. Goldie's nose is upturned and slightly pinched at the end, her eyes are wide set, and her mouth is full and pouty. Mintie's eyes are wider set, large, and her nose is slightly upturned at the end. She has a realistic chin and full cheeks. Her expression might be serene or pouty. Sky is a very pouty thing. She's haughty and gorgeous. She has deeply set eyes, an upturned nose, a rounded chin, and a much softer face shape than the other Peak's Woods dolls. Her eye shape sags in the middle.

I hope this helps. If you have a question about a face sculpt, feel free to drop me a line or leave a comment.